In celebration of Rara Tou Limen's 15th Anniversary, 2019 provided RTL's Artistic Director, Portsha T. Jefferson and company with a chance to embark on a new journey from San Francisco/Oakland Bay Area to Benin, West Africa!
Most of the former Kingdom of Dahomey territory is now present day Benin. Parts of the former kingdom also include Togo and Nigeria.
During the transatlantic slave trade a great number of enslaved Africans who reached the island of Haiti had been taken from the town of Ouidah (Whydah), Benin. As a result, Haitian culture has been greatly influenced by the dance, music, language, history, and spiritual traditions of the Fon and Ewe people of Benin, making the connection between Haiti and Benin undeniable.
Allada (Rada)
In Haiti, Rada is a variant spelling and pronunciation of Allada, which was a major city in the 17th century Kingdom of Dahomey and former capital of the Fon Kingdom.
Kings of Allada | Source: New York Public Library
"Every exit is an entry to somewhere else."
Official Countdown (reflection: april 9th, 2019)
I’m officially counting down the days! I can’t wait to dance on Benin's soil! I will have an opportunity to participate in 5 dance workshops with traditional dancers from Benin! The goal of the dance workshops is to develop technique and gain an ethnographic perspective of Benin’s dances and drum rhythms, Vodoun ceremonial practices in relation to those of Haiti and its diaspora. I’m going to the SOURCE. I'm taking a Vodou Voyage to BENIN.
The journey continues...
I am deeply moved by the outpouring of love, enthusiasm, and overall support of the journey. I’m tickled by the “WHAAAAT, you going WHERE?!” calls, texts and messages. I’ve been pretty tight-lipped about this journey. It’s personal, and guided by my ancestors and my spirits. Confirmation was needed before I revealed my plans to the world. Manifesting in silence...Allowing my ears to hear the whispers. Opening my eyes to see the signs. Just know that I’m comforted by hearing this from my community: “What can we do to help get you there?” This is a word. When you are covered and lifted by God, the Ancestors, Lwa, AND commUNITY? - it means EVERYTHING!
Mesi Bondye. Mesi Zanset yo. Ayibobo pou Lwa yo!
LEARN. STRETCH. GROW.
Haiti to NOLA Chronicles | Photographer: Gason Ayisyin
Although a personal journey, I’m clear that I’m not alone in the advancement. I would not be where I am today, in this moment, without the love, encouragement, critiques, truths, hard lessons, and unwavering support from my blood, spiritual & dance families, ALL of my teachers/mentors/elders who have crossed my path and sprinkled game - YOU have been instrumental in my growth!
Global ATR (African Traditional Religion) commUNITY: the Manbo's, Houngan's, Iya’s, Baba’s, Yayi's, Tata’s, medicine women, my students (elementary, middle, high school and collegiate level) who are my teachers, and test me daily! Social Media. The tool that I love and hate. The platform that has connected and birthed friendships, sweet sister circles and brotherhoods. We are all seeking, striving, learning, and growing. This journey is for YOU too. Us. We. Them. Supreme Gratitude!
THE ADVENTURE BEGINS! SF | Paris | Benin
Prayed up + washed with RTL company members before crossing the waters
A SPIRITUAL PILGRIMAGE A DANCE EXPLORATION A MOVEMENT A CONNECTION!
... a historical journey in MOTION!
LEGBA, OPEN THE WAY!
Vodou Voyage participants with Legbanon Dah Alotehoun
The Vodou Voyage couldn’t begin without consulting Legba ... on Benin’s soil. It was imperative we greeted and saluted this divinity who opens doors, opens roads, opens communication, and opens the way for an abundance of possibilities.
Legbanon Dah Alotehoun was the priest who officiated, and divined for our group. He was warm, welcoming, bright eyed, with the brightest smile while relaying Legba’s messages. Sacrifices and offerings were given to Legba, with an open heart and complete reverence.
We were blessed with a beautiful litany of prayers, chants, a cleansing with palm fronds, and an individual message that applied to our own personal journey.
What a blessing to witness Vodou in real time, amongst community, receive deep, insightful messages from the oracle while standing firmly planted on this rich soil ... AFRICAN soil.
WE RETURNED
Sand between the toes. Ocean Salute. Prayers. Libations. Salute to the Ancestors and the Spirits of the Sea. The Door of No Return. Chants. Wade in the Water. Agwe Tawoyo + La Sirene. Giving thanks. We made it home.
La Porte Du Non Retour | Photo: Elvin Nathan Jones
Ancestors, do you hear us?!
We come to you with an open heart, humility and reverence. We are here in this moment - in Africa because of YOU. We give thanks for your sacrifices, guidance, and messages. We heard the call and answered. We honor you. Oakland to Benin. The Vodou Voyage continues...
The Door Of No Return
IN SOLIDARITY ACROSS THE WATERS: BLACK AUGUST
We Walked A Slave Route...
If you don't know, you NEED to know: Benin has mad love for Ayiti! As we walked along Route des Esclaves (Slave Route) to Zomachi Memorial, in Ouidah, Benin, there stood a monument honoring - Bois Caiman/Bwa Kayiman! Say what?!?! Never would I have imagined that Benin would have a structure recognizing an important moment in history, paying homage to the enslaved Africans who came together to claim their independence at Seremoni Bwa Kayiman.
What a beautiful way to acknowledge Black August with intention! My own personal time to honor Legacy +Liberation, Bwa Kayiman, Freedom Fighters, Political Prisoners, Revolutionaries, and to call the names of Manbo Cecile Fatiman, Dutty Boukman, and give praise to those courageous individuals whose names we do not know.
A DAY WITH THE BOSS
RTL Vodou Voyage Participants with Mami Wata Priestess Hougnongan Touna
A GRAND SALUTE to the Queen, The High Priestess Hougnongan Touna for the warm welcome. A blessed, most memorable day in ritual, on sacred ground, in living, activated shrines, communing with African divinities. Hougnongan Touna - A WOMAN! is the backbone of the compound. Sitting front and center, I was a witness and can testify. An informal talk/presentation was in process with my Dance Kin. History flowed, through her, to us. We were gently put on hold several times: community members asking questions, a client (in a suit) comes and kneels before her. She had his juju ready in a bottle. A few libations were poured, and a prayer...he went about his way. Her attention comes back to the group, but then... she tells us she is vending at an upcoming Vodou ceremony so she and a few Mami’s begin stringing beautiful glass beads to sell... throughout this entire “presentation” this Priestess has on Bluetooth earbuds, cackling with a home girl she hasn’t talked to in some time, and doing it ALL effortlessly, with such gentleness and grace. BOSSY!
Photo: Shawn Merriman-Roberts
"If you want to go fast, go alone. If you want to go far, go together."
When the Village Mama’s and Priestesses guide you to dance in front of the drums, you release the preconceptions and fears.
Surrender! Let Spirit guide + move through!
FA | THE ORACLE
RTL Vodou Voyage Fa Reading | Ouidah, Benin | Photo: Shawn Merriman-Roberts
Vodoun Divination System. Science. Life Sign (Kpoli) + Oral Texts = 256. DU: Oral Divinatory Literature. Destiny. Universal Life. We are all Connected - through Spirit. Nature. Earth Connections: Kola Nut, Leaves, Palm Oil. Animal Sacrifice. Blood and Spirit linked. Vodun. Vodou. VODOUN in BENIN. ABOBO. AYIBOBO!!!!
Ready for the consultation. Front & Center.
There is no where to hide. Spirit present.
Community witnesses. Questions and Answers Confirmed.
CONFIRMATIONS!
Revelations. The Oracle doesn’t lie.
On the Mat | Photo: Shawn Merriman-Roberts
BENIN DANCE & CULTURE
A beautiful cultural exchange of dance, music and song with Georges Djidonou and Ballet As de la Capitale
If you’ve taken a Haitian dance class, you will feel this! THIS is the ROOT. The Source.
Dancing feet planted firmly on the compounds soil Gracefully gliding through space Secular to ceremonial Undulations, Ripples, Accentuated Spines Heads covered in White Priestesses Honoring spirit through DANCE- a crucial role in the African way of life.
An introduction, welcoming, and salutation to the Chief of the compound. It is true! We each have a twin in Africa. The priestess in the center (photos forthcoming) has a striking resemblance to actress Taraji P. Henson! You know those eyes! The pronounced cheekbones, and she had the nerve to have on lashes, okay? The swag and slayage is here in these temples too. Taraji and 'nem did the damn thing! Yass, Queen(s) come through!
Continuously inspired! This country, the rituals, the reverence for the divinities, the knowledge and information that I’m learning by watching. Receiving by participation. Actively seeking, engaging, connecting. Vodou is open, it’s free. It’s accepted. It is...
"We are like islands in the sea, separate on the surface but connected in the deep."
Through my research, I learned a small coastal town by the name of AGOUÈ was near the border between Benin and Togo. A Benin/Haiti spiritual connection! Always looking for an adventure, we jumped in our van and took a drive.
AGOUÉ. AGBÈ. AGWE. Dahomey to Ayiti...
Gesner Abelard Agwe-ta-Royau (Ceremonial Offering for Agwe, God of the Sea), ca. 1955
The parallels between Benin and Haiti are undeniable! Connecting the dots, one journey at a time. Unlocking the keys... We are a singing people, a group who sings everywhere, because that is also a form of devotion. I’m most certain Agwe Tawoyo heard our prayer. ⚓️
THE ROYAL PALACE
reflection: the royal palace
Dusty, muddy roads and crossroads lead me to Palais Royal D’Allada. Home to one of the most significant royal families in Benin. Vodou is strong here, seeping through the walls - literally, as every former king of this family is honored on a huge wall, accompanied by the chosen totem. I received a thorough, detailed history lesson + a tour of the compound by the Kings council member. Historical legacies revealed, thriving dynasties remembered.
His Majesty Kpodégbé Toyi Djigla of Allada is the sixteenth King of the palace, and will sit high on his throne for LIFE! His totem? A BLACK PANTHER! Our meeting was limited, but what I received in that short time frame is priceless. He prayed for my tribe. We huddled together, in unison, holding a brass rod, submitting and receiving the blessings bestowed upon us. I was summoned. I rose and kneeled before him. Solid gold staff in hand, he placed it directly upon my head and began to testify. Deep Prayers in Fon, a language that is completely foreign, but felt immensely. This was the first time since being on the soil that I shed tears. Sobbing. Wailing. Swaying while humbly on bended knees. Tears streaming, we locked eyes and at that moment, he saw me and felt my pain. He knew I returned home to reclaim, reconnect and restore. Allada. Rada. Benin. Haiti. I’ve had more one-on-one conversations with Self while on the Continent. I checked myself! This is more than field research. As a Visual Storyteller, Culture Guardian & Documentarian, I thrive on history, information, parallels, & connections. In this moment, the researcher left the building. Benin’s long lost daughter emerged. - Allada, West Africa | August, 2019
10 years ago, a memorial for Toussaint L’Overture was constructed in his descendants birthplace, Allada West Africa. On August 14, 2019, the 228th anniversary of the commencement of the Haitian revolution, I saw this monument with my own eyes. I touched it, sang to it, raised my Haitian flag in solidarity. I recently had the highest honor of sitting with His Majesty Kpodégbé Toyi Djigla of Allada at his compound, Palais Royal D’Allada where he spoke of Toussaint L’Overture in glowing terms:
“Allada is the country of Toussaint L’Overture. This general is Haitian, and at the same time Beninoise. We have decided to make him known to the people of Benin. Every 7th of April, we have a celebration to honor his spirit and contributions. He is the pride of Haiti. The pride of Benin. The pride of Africans in general. He was a political genius, a perfect diplomatic, a genius of the Black race. One of the most important revolutionaries of all times. As you know, Haiti is the first Black Republic in the world. Toussaint is the most important black person of all time. For us he is unbeatable. We know it!”
Recorded | August 12, 2019 Allada, West Africa Translator: Alex Amoussouvi Transcriber: Portsha T. Jefferson Photos: Tossie Long
SHORE TO SHORE: HONORING DAHOMEAN TRADITIONS
While heading to a destination on our itinerary, we got the call that King Toffa IX of Porto Novo, Benin was available to see us. We made a quick temple call. What a wonderful, rewarding experience!
RTL Vodou Voyage Participants with King Toffa IX of Porto Novo, Benin
We were welcomed and beautifully serenaded by the Queens of the compound. They played a brass instrument called an Ajogan, identified with the Ogu people. It is referred to as royal court music of the old Dahomey and Allada Kingdoms, played by women for the king’s processions, eulogy, and praises. As the video opens, the Queens are on their knees, chanting a welcoming song, which I was later informed is a Da/Dan/Danbala prayer. The solidarity is REAL! If you look to the right of the door, there is a Haitian flag proudly represented on the wall. The King Toffa IX asked us to sing... we didn’t have a choice! It was only fitting we returned the gesture and sing to the Queens, King Toffa, and his council - my nerves! *voice cracking, while shaking inside * ... and YES! I sure did! I proudly accepted my monetary offering from the Queens, which now sits on my altar for Legba. He was hard at work opening these doors.
In the above video, we are singing prayers from Lakou Souvenance, one of the oldest temples in Gonaives, Haiti that honors and celebrates its Dahomean heritage. An annual event in April, this ceremony was a highlight for the cultural exchange trip I co-produced from 2009-2016, with Daniel "Brav" Brevil. “The Bay to Haiti Cultural Exchange” participants learned the Dahomean chants under the guidance and direction of Sanba Zao (Louis Lesly Marcelin), a founder of the racine (roots) music movement in Haiti. Singing these Dahomean prayers/chants I learned in Haiti, many years ago, while in Benin was surreal. It moved my spirit and took me to a special place. When vocalist Tossie Long broke out with:
🎶 SEMONI SEMONI BADÈ HOUN KEBYESOU 🎶 - she took me straight to church!
Strengthening the cultural and spiritual ties... one day at a time. This is the work! This is what manifesting is truly about. I was thrilled to be able to share this touching moment with my dance family. Forward movement! Viv Vodou! Vodou pou lavi!!! AYIBOBO! August | 2019 Porto Novo, Benin 🇧🇯
GRATITUDE
This is an expression of gratitude to the 7 individuals who like myself, felt the call, the push, the urge to make the journey home. These beautiful souls trusted the process and accompanied me on the Vodou Voyage to Benin. A whirlwind of a trip, we danced with celebrated culture bearers, sang for royalty, sang for our ancestors at the Door Of No Return, communed with Kings & Queens, engaged in ritual, participated in a naming ceremony, marketplace adventures and of course we came up on the fashions! Although we went as a group, we each had our individual experiences, connections and revelations.
I asked the Vodou Voyage 2019 participants to provide a photo that resonated with them while in Benin, and a caption that speaks to their experience, which will be added to RTL’s final dance film. They too are a part of the spiritual pilgrimage, the dance & cultural exploration, the Vodou voyage movement, the connection, the historical journey forever in motion.
Our Amazing Hospitality Team! We Give Thanks.
Supreme Gratitude to Sister Ada and Brother Alex! They both went above and beyond to help curate a fantastic cultural and spiritual experience during our stay in Benin.
Ada Anagho Brown | Roots To Glory Tours
Komlan Alex Amoussouvi | Nakayo Tours
VODOU VOYAGE BENIN 2023... the return
Salouwe Legba Salouwe!
In Vodou tradition, it is vitally important to greet and salute Legba who opens doors, roads, communication, and opens the way for an abundance of possibilities. What a blessing to have Legbanon Agbowadanmahikpohoue officiate our opening ceremony with a beautiful litany of prayers, divination and confirmation from the oracle.
The door is open. The road is clear. We are BLESSED. RTL + Lakou Ashade. The journey is destined. The Vodou Voyage continues...
RTL Vodou Voyage 2023 Participants with Legba priests opening the way...
GANVIE
TEMPLE OF PYTHONS
ESPLANADE DES AMAZONES Angélique Kidjo Concert
LA RIVIÈRE NOIRE
SAKPATA CEREMONY Dassa-Zoumé
Finally!! ✅ Made it to Dassa-Zoumé, the town of 41 hills. One of the most important areas for African Vodou, specifically for the divinity Sakpata, the supreme being of the earth. Dassa also serves as the headquarters for the Sakpata divinity. My personal interest: Gu/Ogou energy is strong here due to the large population of Anago people. My interest was peaked upon learning both female and male Ogou's are located only in Dassa-Zoumè. Awoshe Nago! We made our way from our residence in Cotonou, to Abomey, within three hours to visit the Palace of King Akaba, then made a 1.5 hour trek on a bumpy, dusty road to Dassa, to attend a Sakpata ceremony. Surface level research isn't my thing. I NEED to travel deep into the villages to see, feel, hear and dance amongst the people. Admittedly, I questioned whether this seasoned body could withstand the rigorous bus ride. Flashback to the roadtrips in Ayiti. Traveling from Port-au-Prince to the countryside on unpaved roads in tap-taps and pick-up trucks chasing Lakou's + information, was cool in my early years... What I realized is that the information was and will continue to be waiting for me/us! I'm still hungry for the knowledge.
During the ride, I asked myself: How much do I want it? What am I still willing to do to obtain it? How will the information continue to serve my needs during this stage of my artistic + spiritual development?
The truth is, I'm fascinated, in fact, obsessed with the spiritual correlations within the African Vodoun system and Haitian Vodou. Last night, during the Sakpata ceremony I saw it all, in one setting: Yanvalou, Mayi, Zepol, Nago, Banda Latibonit, & the Kase danced via Vodoun adepts (initiates) that went far beyond "steps". What I witnessed was sacred movement in motion, EMBODIED with a purpose, informing my decision to KEEP GOING! Grateful to have made it here! Still connecting the dots, one journey at at time. RTL Vodou Voyage 2023 🇧🇯 Sakpata Ceremony | 🎥: Ashade